Hard-Bodied Errata/Updates

First, check the Repair FAQ page. Other than that, just three things:

  • It's embarrassing to admit, but it just didn't occur to us to try a detergent, instead of a solvent, to remove melted belts. Just about any dishwashing detergent or even hand soap will work, and you won't have to worry about dissolving plastic parts. I'm also told spray electrical contact cleaner is plastic-safe and works well.
  • If you separate the pullstring spool from the flywheel, the warnings in the manual will come true and the clutch bearings will fall out--and they don't like being found. Not a problem; you'll just have to make a new set. The original bearings are .063" by 7/32". You'll need to buy a #52 drill bit, which is .064" in diameter. You can buy them at hobby shops or high-class tool stores. Cut three 7/32" long sections with a Dremel cutoff wheel, and round off their corners. (Even if you're only missing one, you should replace all three.) They live in those three notches around the axle hole of the spool; stick them in place temporarily with spit for reassembly.
  • Earlier editions of the manual didn't mention the option of using Plastruct's Weldene, a citrus-based styrene solvent, as an alternative to MEK. Weldene takes longer to cure than MEK, which is a plus when resealing a torso. (I suspect that because of the increased drying time it may not work very well as a solvent for making liquid styrene.) Weldene is available at hobby shops and can be ordered over the Internet. Just Google "Weldene." I'm informed that MEK is known as "Butanon" in Germany and that a product called "Tangit" is an acceptable substitute elsewhere in Europe.

    Please contact us if there are other things we've missed:

    Talky Tina Press
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    Medford, OR 97501-3638

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